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Malaysia's tropical rainforest. What comes to mind? Giant trees, lush green foliage, tigers, elephants, and lots of wild, dangerous animals. But there is much more to it than just that. In the humidity and confusion of the thick forest, one can easily overlook the smaller, harmless and just as important inhabitants. Flying lizards, insect-eating plants, the most foul smelling flower on earth - the rafflesia, swooping squirrels, timid mousedeers, dung beetles, lantern bugs, bats, the slow loris', a variety of birds, primates and many more that exist in this complex piece of land. With a little bit of time and patience their presence and beauty will eventually unfurl itself to their seekers.

Kenong Rimba Reserve is a rare find. Much of Malaysia's lowland forests have been or are in the midst of being cleared for urban development and palm oil plantations. However, there are several splotches of primary jungle that has been retained for the specific purpose of fauna and flora research like those preserved at the Krau Reserve in Pahang and Endau-Rompin National Park that borders Johore and Pahang. Krau Reserve is strictly kept for research purposes and only a small section of Endau-Rompin is accessible to the public whilst Kenong Rimba, a well-preserved lowland forest reserve, on the other hand, is open to everyone (except illegal loggers and poachers! but alas, there are plenty of these groups of thieves and rougues around especially in the reserves)

villagers bathing in the river

Many travellers interested in experiencing the wonders of the rainforest jungle are realising the importance of this relatively untouched, intriguing piece of jungle land possibly with much help from the Lonely Planet, Rough Guide etc. It is not difficult to imagine why. This relatively small (about 128km sq) but significant reserve park shares its northern border with Taman Negara. Thankfully, facilities are kept as basic as possible so that visitors can truly sink into a bit of roughing out at the campsites. There are only 4 basic chalets (2 to each chalet) and a longhouse that can accommodate 60 persons. Water is supplied from nearby streams and there is no electricity supply. So don't bother bringing your laptops and handphone chargers etc. There are also no baggage porters. Each person carries his or her own belongings and food ration enough for the number of days spent in the jungle.

This trip provides the trekker a back-to-basics experience. From the feedback and response of visitors to the park, there seems to be a unified appreciation for the raw, no-frills experience. One can literally feel the pulse of the jungle; the complexity of an intricate ecosystem - everything that lives and dies in the realm of the rainforest jungle.

Shopping for a guide

there are a number of agencies along the main street selling packages to kenong rimba. make your choice carefully

A qualified and registered guide must accompany any visitor entering the park. They are responsible for submitting visitors' forms to the various authorities prior to entering the park. Several years back, visitors were allowed to roam freely within the park and the outcome was disastrous. Graffiti scrawled on cave walls and uncontrolled littering along trails and at campsites were the results. With the presence of guides, there is at least greater control over such vandalism.

There are a several trekking operators in Kuala Lipis specialising in the Kenong Rimba Reserve Park. The tourist information counter at the train station is a private concern run by Encik Tuah. If you find the office closed, it may mean that he has gone off on a trip into the jungle. Do try calling him for arrangements prior to the trip. The 3days 2nights charges are RM200+ per person.

Having failed to make any pre-arrangements, we decided to try other operators around. The Pan Holidays tourist information centre, situated on the ground floor of a building directly opposite the train station, has a number of different packages to choose from starting at RM90 for a day trip and for a 3day/2night trip costing RM185 per person. We were informed that an English speaking guide would meet us at the office at 7.00am the next day for a preliminary briefing and we would then board the 7.22 a.m. southbound train to Batu Sembilan. From there we take a 10-15min boatride into the reserve. The package provides stay at the Kenong Persona Resort with 4 chalets or the longhouse at the Kesong camp. Food, train and boat charges, guide services and park charges are also included in the package.

There are two ways of getting there: -

By boat

One way is to take a 1½ to 2 hour boat ride from Kuala Lipis town to the park entrance at Jeti Tanjung Kiara (the Tanjung Kiara jetty).

By rail

the old railway tracks laid down during the British days - still in use

The other way is to catch a train from Kuala Lipis station to Batu Sembilan (RM1), which takes approximately 30minutes. A 5 to 10minute boat ride (RM30 return) from Batu Sembilan (at the Kampung Kuala Kenong jetty) takes you to the park entrance.

After a lengthy deliberation on which package best suited us, we opted for the longer boat ride down the river just so that we could experience what it would have been like for travellers a century ago to paddle down these important natural highways. The other plus point for us was that we didn't have to get up at the crack of dawn to catch the early train. We eventually met with Appu of Appu's Guesthouse. The Guesthouse is situated on the first floor of a pre-war shophouse on the main street just above a restaurant called Low Kuan. Kuala Lipis town is pretty compact so getting lost is the least of one's worries!

Not early risers, Appu's package suited us to a tee! We were told that our transport, a motor powered longboat would be moored down by the river, just a little distance from the guesthouse that was scheduled to leave at 9.30am. (From experience, don't expect that to be on time!). That gave us ample time to spoil ourselves on a hearty breakfast. Looking for food certainly wasn't a problem at Kuala Lipis. There was a wide choice of Chinese, Malay and Indian cuisine all waiting to be savoured. However, it would be difficult to find pancakes and such delights. If you are not a 'breakfast person', toast and coconut jam served at the coffee stalls is delightful and can tie you over till lunch.

Once fuelled up, we were revving to go!

more on kenong rimba story...

Accommodation and Packages to Kuala Lipis & Kenong Rimba Park

Malaysia Rainforests, Sanctuaries and Parks

Short Adventure & Nature Trips