English (英语) |

At seven in the morning, we were on our way to catch a ride to Kudat. Jin, a friend, offered to send me to the outstation taxi stand at Padang Merdeka in Kota Kinabalu. Already, a row of vans and 4WDs were available, scheduled for destinations down south and up north. Jin found a 4WD going to Kudat and negotiated a front seat for me. There were already 5 passengers in the car and they only needed one more before pushing off - lucky me! Destination Kudat normally costs RM20 per person but because I had wanted to be dropped off at Bavanggazo Longhouse which required a short detour off the main road, there was a RM5 surcharge for the door drop off.

paddyfields along the drive to kudat

Quick goodbyes to Jin and I was off. The road was wide and in good condition. Hardly any traffic really. I settled down and watched the countryside roll past for 2 1/2 hours and daydreamed about my stay at Bavanggazo. I've never stayed at a longhouse before and as this was a solo trip, I was a little apprehensive.

A couple of days before, I visited the Sabah Tourism Info Centre in KK for some help on where to stay in Kudat and came across a folder on the reading shelf. A few pages and a short description on the Rungus Longhouse peeked my interest. Since I had a bit of free time before my Mount Kinabalu climb, 2 nights at the longhouse would be just fine. The tourism officer advised me to make arrangements with the manager of the longhouse directly. I dialled and Angkung, the manager answered. I enquired for 1 room and as a group of 40 persons had just checked out, he had a room for me for the night. What luck! All he said over the phone was..yes available, come over. Come over? That was easy.but was the room guaranteed or it's a come over and we'll see where we can fit you.. that happens sometimes especially with impromptu visits.

As all this was playing out in my head, a signboard along the way jolted me back to the present. 'Kampung Tinanggol'. That sounded familiar, I was sure we were close. The driver turned off into a dirt road and we bounced our way up a 2km stretch before stopping at Bavanggazo. Wow, it's exactly as the photos showed in the folder back at the tourist info centre! The driver carried my rucksack to the resthut and for a moment I felt a bit lost - there didn't seem to be anyone around. A few minutes later a young lady popped her head out of the kitchen window and informed me that Angkung and the rest of the family had gone to Kota Marudu, a town nearby for the Tadau Kaamatan (Harvest Festival)

Tadau Kaamatan (Harvest Festival)

locals gather for the festival, having lots of fun

I had completely forgotten that the festival was to be held at Kota Marudu that weekend. Every year the opening ceremony of Tadau Kaamatan is held at different localities in Sabah and communities from various districts will travel to the hosting district to participate. The opening ceremony is normally on 1 st May and the festival lasts about a month with the closing ceremony held at Panampang, Kota Kinabalu on the 31 st May.

Until the mid-1960's, about 85% of the natives in Sabah lived in the interiors and many practiced their own pagan beliefs despite the possible influence from Christian missionaries and Muslim traders. There were many beliefs attached to their environment, their lifestyle, their homes and even their crops.

The natives believed that Kinoingan, the Almighty Creator sacrificed His only daughter, Huminodun for his people and from her body, padi shoots sprouted. The livelihood of His people flourished and with the protection of Huminodun's spirit called Bambaazon, they were never want for food.

In gratitude, ceremonies and festivals such as Tadau Kaamatan is now celebrated to honour and give thanks to Bambaazon. For the festival to commence, a rituals called the Magavau is conducted by the Bobohizan or high priestess to invite the Bambaazon or Rice Spirit for a feast in celebration of a year of bountiful harvest.

offerings

In the past, Magavau was conducted in the padi fields on the first full moon night after the harvest. An entourage of Bobohizan led a slow procession through the fields chanting prayers to Bambaazon. A sword-wielding warrior would walk ahead of this group to ensure no evil spirits disrupted the ritual. Only the Bobihizan could sense the presence of the Bambaazon and upon Her arrival, the best of the harvest and produce meticulously were laid out on banana leaves for the ethereal guest to feast on and this included chicken meat, eggs, the finest tapai or rice wine, betel nut, tobacco and kirai ("rollie").

Another offering was placed on a specially built bamboo platform. This was for the spirit to bring back to the spirit world to feed creatures that would otherwise feed off the padi.

It is this time of year that the Kadazandusun communities celebrate and in some communities; it is a month long celebration with much merry making and drinking of the rice wine.

A ride to Kota Marudu

rungus ladies bartering..homemade beaded necklaces are popular

Back on the main road again, I flagged down a 4WD and headed back towards Kota Marudu. RM4 and ½ hour later I was in the middle of a field. There were people in a variety of traditional wear, cultural dances on a raised platform, blaring music and at a little corner, a collection of attap huts hosting all sorts of activities conducted by various ethnic communities - showcasing their traditional way of life, handiwork and ethnic music. At the Rungus show hut, the peoples were dressed in their colourful wear. a group of young people were showing off their balancing skills, stomping around on a pair of wooden stilts. Women were sitting in the shade, chewing on pinang wrapped in sireh (betelnut and sireh), and working on beaded necklaces.

The festival was a big gathering of local communities ~ everyone happy to see each other, relatives from villages all over Sabah, meeting up, joyous and over food and rice wine - music and dancing. Laughs and stories.

I finally caught up with Angkung. His family was performing at the cultural performance and caught a ride back with them.

more on the rungus ...

Accommodation and Packages to Kota Kinabalu , Beaches, Nature and Highlands on the outskirts

Malaysia Cultural Activities, Festivals and Arts, People